As managed by Giorgio Armani few months ago, also Elisabetta Franchi debuted a Fall-Winter 2021-2022 collection in streaming on small screen.
Maison Celestino scatena i sensi dello spettatore con la nuova collezione A/I 2021-2022, intitolata Madame Bovary e ispirata a Emma, il celebre personaggio della letteratura francese, che sarà presentata in esclusiva mondiale in modalità digitale dal 25 Febbraio.
Per questa edizione di Altaroma, “International Couture” sarà presente con “My Fashion Dream” un Cortometraggio sul canale digitalrunway.altaroma.it in Live Streaming il 18 febbraio alle ore 16:00.
Continua la fusione tra streetwear e brand del lusso, due mondi apparentemente diversi ma si uniscono. Sneakers, felpe e tute diventano di tendenza, tanto quanto lo sono le it-bag.
How can a brand be capable of getting the best from the artistic directors it meets?
Finalmente svelata la nuova Capsule Collection di cui si è discusso particolarmente negli ultimi tempi: The North Face x Gucci nella quale due brand, apparentemente diversi, si riuniscono per creare una collezione che esprimere i valori che caratterizzano due concetti: Natura e Libertà, attraverso i quali abiti, accessori, calzature e attrezzature da camping hanno preso vita rievocando agli anni 70.
Il tema della natura è stato, da sempre, parte integrante di entrambi i brand. L’importanza dell’ambiente ricopre un ruolo centrale nella collezione, il design dell’abbigliamento prevede colori e disegni che richiamano la natura.
La location scelta per la Campagna pubblicitaria sono le Alpi dove l’indipendenza viene interpretata come libertà d’espressione, introspettiva ed analitica, uno dei temi che ha ispirato l’originalità degli abiti realizzati del direttore creativo Alessandro Michele, il quale crede fortemente nell’importanza dell’espressione individuale. Meno astratto, e più tangibile, è invece il concetto di libertà di The North Face, più legato alla possibilità di esplorazione. Offrire la possibilità di esplorare è uno dei motivi per cui, sin dal 1966 il brand americano ha iniziare a creare un outfit in grado di permettere agli amanti dell’avventura di andare alla scoperta del mondo, ma sempre rimanendo fashion e soprattutto comodi!
Altro elemento imprescindibile della collezione è sicuramente il tema dell’ecosostenibilità: già particolarmente rilevante, ed è sicuramente destinato ad acquisire un’importanza centrale per la moda del futuro.
I nostri direttori creativi, infatti, desiderano tutelare l’ambiente, motivo per cui utilizzano materiali sostenibili per produrre la collezione.
Citando VOGUE Italia che riporta: “Gli articoli da viaggio sono stati realizzati usando Econyl, ossia tessuto di nylon ottenuto da materiali rigenerati mentre i porta abiti, le scatole e i sacchetti del packaging prevedono carta ottenuta con tecniche sostenibili.” Affermazione considerevole che si evince non solo nella presentazione della Capsule Collection ma soprattutto nel video realizzato da Daniel Shea, accompagnato dalla musica di sottofondo Bad Moon Rising, dove la scelta delle Alpi insieme ai suoi protagonisti che rappresentano un gruppo di hikers alla scoperta della natura, evoca l’immagine di un paesaggio sublime ampliato dall’entusiasmo dei ragazzi che ricordano i viaggi organizzati degli anni 70; Viaggi in cui tutti erano desiderosi di contemplare la bellezza di una natura ancora incontaminata indossando The North Face della California, a Berkeley.
Tuttavia. sappiamo che un capo d’abbigliamento può sembrare apparentemente un insieme di tessuti, forme e colori ma egli può nascondere un significato emozionale molto più profondo della sua consistenza tessile. Infatti, la ricerca della libertà è stata l’ispirazione emotiva che ha spinto alla creazione della collezione Gucci.
La filosofia e il senso di questa libertà ci mostra come nella vita è importante riuscire a superare qualsiasi tipo di ostacolo, perché, solo superando le nostre paure potremmo contemplare la reale bellezza e assaporare un senso di libertà autentico, che ricorda quel senso di emancipazione permettendo di arrivare sulle cime più alte delle montagne.
Alessandro Michele ha dipinto la capacità di sentirsi liberi, associata al saper instaurare un contatto con la natura, egli crede che molti cadono in errore che interpreta cosi: “Il raccontare l’uomo come un essere diviso o espulso dalla natura. Ma in realtà noi siamo la natura e la natura è noi”.
La collezione Gucci sarà distribuita in diversi Gucci Pin temporanei. Ci sarà inoltre una selezione limitata di articoli disponibili su gucci.com e i temi della collezione appariranno sui Gucci Artwalls in varie città come Hong-Kong, Shanghai, Londra, New York e Milano.
Alissa Bianconi
Bibliografia
https://www.vogue.it/moda/article/the-north-face-gucci-collezione-foto
“Be the change!”
With these words the famous luxury group LVMH has introduced the new environmental protection’s program: LIFE 360 (Initiatives For the Environment for the next 3,6 and 10 years). Through this initiative the Maison wants to create innovative work policies that could also be time sustainable.
Therefore, LVMH is carrying out highly ambitious environment-friendly principles by setting some climate goals. For instance, all group sites will use 100% renewable energy and will dispose of fossil-based virgin plastic in packaging by 2026. For the French company owned by the Arnault family, the environmental issue is therefore a topic of primary importance.
In particular, the most important LIFE 360 topics are:
Climate, biodiversity, creative circularity and transparency.
The aim of the program is to reduce the environmental pollution caused by LVMH.
The initiative was born, first of all, from the necessity to help the modern society to face the climate change and secondly, from the constraint to sensitize not only the customers, but also partner and employees.
The global expansion that characterizes the Maison, made possible for LVMH to organize a special online event in which 160.000 employees were involved, together with some well-known personalities of Fashion including creative directors, senior LVMH executives and members of different LVMH brands.
In detail, a climate week has been set up in which there was a chance to talk about the key topics of LIFE 360.
The event in question took place from 8-11 December. The various meetings included the exchange of ideas, doubts and suggestions that guests decided to share in order to play an active role in the realization of a more sustainable luxury environment.
Over the four days of the climate week, different themes have been discussed in turn accompanied by several characters.
The first day has been dedicated to biodiversity.
From the meeting, it emerged that all LVMH brands are particularly worried about the prosperity of biodiversity since the latter also depends on the climate regulation. Nowadays, further increases in temperature could negatively affect the eco-system.
And if the situation does not improve over the next years, the eco-system deterioration could create devastating consequences for both humans and other animal or plant species.
The second day of the climate week concerned the carbon offsetting.
From the online discussion emerged that, in order to respect the trajectory set by the Paris Agreement, aimed at stabilizing global warming at under 2°C, greenhouse gas emissions must be brought to zero by the end of the 21st century.
The French group is constantly facing these environmental challenges.
In fact, carbon offsetting, related to boutiques and production sites, has already been reduced to 25%.
Moreover, LVMH is focusing its efforts on emissions that do not come directly from manufacturing, but they come from other links in the product lifecycle – sourcing of raw materials, transport to stores or customers, etc.
Moving on with our week, only during the third day there has been a focus on the specific position of the luxury within environmental pollution.
In this regard, Antoine Arnault, LVMH communications manager, claimed that they are not a fashion group, but instead, they represent a luxury group.
And this is the reason why the holdings are far from the world’s most polluting industry.
In fact, LVMH carbon footprint represents under 0.5% of the total carbon emissions of the fashion industry. The luxury sector, therefore, acts for the fashion industry’s most sustainable segment.
The Group brought together four Creative Directors from its Maisons – Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Creative Director of Kenzo, Kim Jones, Dior Men’s Creative Director, Jonathan Anderson, Creative Director of Loewe and Stella McCartney, Creative Director of her eponymous brand. These Ceos created their sustainable luxury’s vision by using different strategies; for instance Jonathan Anderson created the upcycled collection Eye/Loewe/Nature, Stella McCartney built a strong relationship with Evrnu, a textile innovation company and Kenzo started a partnership with WWF.
Finally, the Climate Week’s success was also confirmed on the last day by the LIFE in Stores Awards. The recognition for the best initiatives that support progress and innovation, by increasing the environmental development, went to the following brands:
–Envelope Design and Energy Management: Louis Vuitton, Florence
–Lighting and Interior Design: Bvlgari, Milan Montenapoleone
–Interior Air Quality : Loro Piana, Munich
–Maintenance: Berluti, Paris Saint-Honoré
–Progression (special category) : Christian Dior
The climate week came to a close with these winners!
Sources:
https://www.lvmh.it/notizie-documenti/notizie/in-occasione-del-5-anniversario-dellaccordo-di-parigi-lvmh-mobilita-i-suoi-collaboratori-per-lanciare-una-nuova-strategia-ambientale/
Even the end of a complicated year as 2020 needs to be properly celebrated. There is always a reason why to dress up that is not connected to our surroundings: our relatives, roommates and partners have seen the worst of our hoodies during these months… it is about time to break the comfy/sporty vicious cycle and try to approach positively the new, promising year. Here, few suggestions to gradually step into the party mode without leaving our couches.
Starters: jewelry heels, satin and velvet sandals, embodied and fur slippers. If we admit that, at least once in life we all have worn heels with the absolute certainty that we were not going out. But despite the circumstances (and the short kitchen-living room transit), this New Year’s Eve proposals allow several medium-high heel examples. First of all let’s coordinate. Not just according to the outfit colors and fabrics but shoes, today, could be coordinated to ribbons, gloves and even just nail polish. For an immediate switch to the Great Gatsby mood, crushed jewel heels (medium to high heel) should be a must; even if the shoes are a total black or dark forest green or steady burgundy, the jewel needs to sparkle. In alternative to embedded jewelry can be the lace pumps, the luxury of lace would immediately elevate the look with minimum effort. As for open shoes, not only a choice for summer anymore, glittered, leather sandals could be used to step in the 2021 with a twist of dazzling excitement. Satin and velvet can also be considerate due to the almost infinite associations in terms of style that the Christmas-winter wardrobe offers. One last consideration for our love-hate relationship with slippers. Since they are been worn quite a lot during 2020, a good pause may be allowed during these holidays. But, for the most slipper-affectionate, they can be allowed only if follow the coordination rule: the situation needs to be firmly managed because slippers need to be in harmony both in terms of colors and fabrics.
Main course: Satin dresses, Tie Neck Blouses, Leather Pants and Feathers Pjs. Starting with a classic rendez-vous, satin dresses need to be mentioned. It’s the perfect balance between in and out: with high heels (even velvet sandals for winter) the satin dress is a winning choice for both elegance and audacity outside. The fabric sinuosity and wearability can remember nightgowns; this feeling could be enriched by flat fur slippers or jewelry embedded slippers. To obtain (and eventually elevate) the ‘90s nostalgia vibe, the dress can be associated to “layers” from chunky to turtleneck jumpers or a more traditional open cardigan. For the undecided or last-minute choices, we feel like we can easily suggest tie neck blouses maybe in association to a bold leather pant: to avoid the one-piece effect, accessories should be added to the look. Strong colors could be associated to a matte black look or coral and red pieces could liven up a total beige outfit. The result is an edgy alternative, not so festive as the satin dress but still, eye-catching. As for the parties Pjs, the new mantra should be details: they can be feather or camisole polka-dot in satin or glittery paillettes all around. After months of causality, our suggestion is “BE EXTRA” and wear a PJ in which you won’t be afraid to be seen into. So, wear Paris with your Pj and your best Basque, or wear London with your checked Pj and umbrella earrings.
As Audrey Hepburn’s oversize shirt in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” and Carrie Bradshaw in “Sex and the City”, pearl necklaces (long or short) could be the final touch to a apparently predictable item of clothing.
Dessert: It bags, earrings, necklaces and hairbands. As for the last sweet slice of Christmas fashion, accessories will probably become your best friends. The New Year’s Eve is the time to justify all the crystal material bought through the years: from crystal pendant earrings, to pearl and rhinestone buckle belts to extra long necklaces. The accessory will break the ice and make you feel immediately into the party, even if it allows no more than 5 people. So pendant, glittery, basic symmetrical or even just a white pearl, they all deserve to join the festive setting. Even the hairbands cannot be forgotten: it is time to banish to common “Happy New Year” band and permanently replace them with sparkly bandeau. As for handbags, they may be the less useful tool especially if you’re only moving from one room to another in your own flat. But, hey- it doesn’t mean that you don’t need to carry anything with you. The best advice is “go petite”. From feather-embellished totes (remember you coordinated PJ), to bracelet tasseled embellished clutches and mini trapezoid crossbody bags: nothing is more effective than your self-confidence.
Fanny Trivigno
Sources:
https://www.whowhatwear.co.uk/new-years-eve-outfit-ideas-2015/slide13
https://www.google.it/amp/s/www.glamour.com/gallery/new-years-eve-outfit-ideas/amp
https://www.google.it/amp/s/www.whowhatwear.com/amp/new-years-eve-accessories
Just few days ago, the American brand Supreme found itself winner in a harsh battle against its fakes. The brand, in fact, has been officially registered in Europe after many years of contracting debate.
We may all recognize its distinctive colors, red and white, without thinking twice but the over one-billion brand has been through quite a lot. The trademark key elements are its simplicity, popularity and it edgy vibe; without forgetting the Futura Italic font which is inspirited by artist Barbara Kruger.
Supreme was born during the 90s, in a particular urban atmosphere where other fellow brands like Adidas and Nike were already getting known through hip- hop culture and the production of sweaters, sport suits, jackets and t-shirts. The concept of “streetwear” has been the core and the mean of the trademark; the young 90s generation was immediately attracted by the idea of being able to wear the same outfits of their rappers/sport idols and all without breaking the bank. The beginning of the 90s, specifically April 1994, when the Supreme creator James Jebbia puts on the market a new line inspirited by skaters. Its first shop, also, reflects its content: it was originally set up in Lafayette Street in Soho, NY. A little shop among common sellers: a mechanic, an antique and a fire station. The atmosphere in Soho, on the other hand, is changing: the Keith Haring store nearby is calling for an artistic echo. And this is just the outside.
Once the Supreme shop is settled, the layout is speaking for itself and it seems hard to say if it is an alternative reality or a concrete rendezvous of street culture, sports, arts and design. The second shop will be opened after 10 years in LA. This time the shop proves itself worth the title of “store”: double the size of the first purchasing point in NY, it shows a real skate rink. And from this point on, several stores have been opened in Brooklyn (NY), Paris, London, Osaka, Tokyo, Fukoka and Nagoya.
Supreme, is considered by some fashion addicted as “the Chanel of streetwear”, some others are just seeing a strong marketing strategy able to transform a casual streetwear in a desirable, fashionable and maybe iconic brand. In the last years Supreme collaborated with several brands, some belonging to luxury goods environment: it is the case of Louis Vuitton, Rimowa, Store Island, The North Face, Playboy, Levi’s and Comme des Garcons (capsule collection in 2012). As for the world of art and design, Supreme has been associated to Christopher Wool, Jeff Koons, Mark Flood, Neil Young, John Baldessari and Nate Lowman. Furthermore, the brand has also had its products photographed by Terry Richardson and among its ambassadors is possible to remember Michael Jordan, Lady Gaga, Kate Moss, Morrisey and Neil Young.
The firm started the registration of the brand “Supreme” as trademark years ago but only in August, the Euipo finalized the last step which recognized the brand Intellectual property rights in Europe. As “state of art” the brand will be protected against any counterfeiting attempt and it will be also prevented from exploitation by the ones who did not apply for the registration. In fact, through the years, Supreme has been subjected to several case of “misunderstanding”. And highly publicized dispute was against “supreme” by Samsung. In 2018, Samsung announced the imminent collaboration with “Supreme” on Chinese Market. So far so good, until the misunderstanding was that the South-Korean Company was not referring the American Supreme but it was referring to an Italian “supreme” brand from Apulia. Not to mention the conclusion: the collaboration has been suspended permanently.
In conclusion the Supreme happenings, during the 2020 an acquisition took place by the Vf Corporation. It has been announced that the streetwear brand will enter the new corporation galaxy with a modest amount of 2,1 billions dollars.
Happy to know that this 2020 ended up well for this business!
Fanny Trivigno
Sources:
medium.com/@gmelani/lincredibile-storia-di-supreme-e1fac172707;
www.pambianconews.com/2020/12/03/supreme-spazza-il-tavolo-dei-fake-il-marchio-usa-ottiene-registrazione-in-eu-306113/.
When it comes to Christmas we will directly start to think about fluffy scarves, extra-large over-decorated jumpers and quite disagreeable socks. So, let’s face it, Christmas is that time of the year when the fashion reputation is suspended.
What we may look for, especially after this difficult year, is a little sense of self-concentration where the primping is little but constant work to avoid blues and negativity. Taking care of ourselves passes also through our imagination: the ability to create new scenarios in which it is possible to “redecorate” our dreams and fill in with concrete premises…what a better way to deal will all these suggestions if not by watching a Christmas movie?
Since we like it fashion, here is a list of classy and timeless options to avoid the mushy effect.
The first movies that should be mentioned is “Meet me in St. Louis” edited in 1944. Even if it does not apply to the classical definition of Christmas themed performances, it is necessary to put the attention on the magic vibe expressed by the motion picture and its cast.
A marvelous Judy Garland’s performance with “have yourself a merry little Christmas” is meant to be listened to over and over again through the ages; together with her vibrant character there’s Margaret O’Brien, Mary Astor, Tom Drake, Lucille Bremer and Marjorie Main. Apart from the musical features, the attention is caught by the extravagant costumes; a must for the fashion addicted are the evolution of the wardrobe according to the development of the story and particularly of Judy Garland’s Esther character. The designer Irene Sharaff is not afraid to toss some lady-like gloves on the young girl-next-door-character for the central “The Trolley song” and also, puff sleeves allowing, she adds more definition to the feminine waistline of the Garland even if the character is not completely ditching her tomboy tendencies along the story developing.
Another holiday classic “need to be” is the Frank Capra’s “A Wonderful Life”, 1946. Starring Donna Reed and James Stewart, the picture style says “vintage festive attire”. The most iconic costumes are, no doubts allowed, Mary Hatch’s Christmas dress, Mary’s dress that wins over George and Ruth Dakin’s family meeting outfit. As for the first one, in a duck blue egg color (as possible to see from the remastered color version), the costume designer felt the urge to impress the audience by introducing historically moderated dresses; that’s why the mentioned dress edited in 1946 for a time-story set in 1928 looks very up-to-the-minute. The second one, the dress that wins the man, should be seen as a fundamental step in the story: the two lovers finally together with Mary wearing a full-skirted silk dress in a shady, somber pink. As a reflection of the character purity of heart and goodwill, the dress is elegantly embodied around the neckline and the hem. The last outfit belongs to Harry Bailey’s wife, who’s able to exhibit a glamorous silhouette in a black pencil skirt, checked jacked with capped sleeves and a large decorated corsage. A pre-pin up vibe.
Carrying on the movie marathon, “White Christmas” (1954) represents as well as a good example of stylish holidays. The film is cheerful, frisky comedy where the joy is displayed since the very first moment: colors and bright lights, perfectly 50s-ish are successfully capturing the atmosphere. The costumes here are more “traditional”: despite a good dose of “well-embedded Santa Suit”, the Judy Hayne’s turquoise lace and pink full-skirted nightgown are divinely winning the attention. Apart from the women outfits, the costume designer Edith Head expresses her gratified enthusiasm for the men dressing in White Christmas, including the Danny’s charcoal gray suit.
To end up with two gems of the golden age of Hollywood, we propose: “Desk Set” and “Bell, Book and Candle”. The first one, “Desk Set ” edited in 1957, is a first (mild) step on the feminist debate starring Katherine Hepburn, an actress remarkable not only for her talent but also for her dashing, foreseeing attire in terms of clothing choices. The costume designer is the Oscar winner Charles Le Miane and the doozy piece that everyone would probably remember is Dina’s purple cocktail dress, a flare cut typical 50sish.
The last movie is “Bell, Book and Candle” directed by Richard Quine in 1958 and starring Kim Novak, James Stewart, Jack Lemmon, Ernie Kovacs, Hermione Gingold, Elsa Lanchester and Janice Rule. A fantastic comedy in which destiny twists and witty but hilarious stereotypes, the Greenwich Witch casts a love spell.
Another link to Christmas-Halloween movies like Tim burton’s “Nightmare before Christmas” would do. But here the focus is on the chic outcomes of Kim Novak: from classy black trousers and high-necked cardigans, red-Christmas coats and bright gloves to the sleeveless green romantic dress, the pink gown and the bold deep-low line black dress for the evening that makes the costume designer Jean Louis choices extremely actual.
Sources:
www.google.it/amp/s/alisonkerr.wordpress.com/2010/12/02/style-on-film-bell-book-and-candle/amp/
[https://clerkenwellvintagefashionfair.co.uk/our-favourite-outfits-from-its-a-wonderful-life/
https://www.google.it/amp/s/birthmoviesdeath.com/2017/02/17/irene-sharaffs-transformative-costumes-in-meet-me-in-st.-louis/amp
https://vmagazine.com/article/the-10-most-fashionable-christmas-movies/
Fanny Trivigno
