The Dolce and Gabbana Renaissance

From an already enchanted Villa Bardini in Florence, last week Dolce and Gabbana presented their new collection. Some notes tend to maintain a sort of continuity with the previous collection, if we think about the elegant black pieces of Haute Couture and the glorious hairbands and hats, but the melody altogether keeps the premises for something new.

As time requires, fashion will respond with grace.

The premises for the new Dolce and Gabbana season are blossoms, youth, precious Jewelry and nature. With a collection of 80 pieces, the new Haute Couture amaze the public, step by step, on the cobblestones of the Villa garden. The air has been full of emotions and optimism, even if from the outside, we would have liked to see more face masks and social distancing, the result has been able to let us forget a little of this year happenings.

After the Men Haute Couture still based on the topic of rebirth, the new Women Collection followed the same path organizing itself, as well, around the topic of the Renaissance. The collection has been inspired by the original idea of Giovanni Battista Giorgini who, back to 1951, encouraged enormously the Italian Haute Couture into the creation of its own couture models at the time when they were previously purchased from directly from Paris.

This is the pride of being Italian, as both the creators of the Maison assumed: “(..) Our dream has always been to perform a collection as a tribute to Giorgini’s creativity and initiative. We wish for the tradition of the Italian Haute Couture to be spread worldwide as a timeless value of Made in Italy (..)”.

Like the struggle of people committed for the rebuilding of their traditions, the new collection seems to have a lot in common with a vintage idea of the 50s; a peculiar time that reminds of the golden age of the Italian Hollywood, Cinecittà studios, the Junoesque measures of Sophia Loren and the return of the full skirt, wisely enriched by the baroque tulles: a typically of D&G style.

After the lockdown period the designers created their first collection totally “home-made” using all the materials they could easily get or already had. For the creation of this season, the Dolce and Gabbana team has also been integrated by fifteen new designers aged from 20 to 25. Tradition bounded to new inspiration. The protagonist of the season is the craftsmanship: a type of art that does not need to be urged to be perfectly performed; according to the designer themselves, some pieces have been structured with more than 1500 unique-craft-made pieces of garments and the knitting process tends to recall the stones inlays.

So, what is the real goal? Trying to re-educate the eyes and especially the heart to beauty and individuality, no labels needed. Through the words of Dolce and Gabbana: “(..) Socials, the web and the globalization created a plain stimulus of the research and a fervent urgency for immediate self-accomplishment. But fashion, as anything valuable, needs time. Quality against quantity. But homologation created a “ugly” comfort zone where is easy to stay in(..)”.

This represent not only a great performance for a dazzling return, the season tends to assume a different meaning according to our perception of rebirth: from work to school, vacation to the ordinary routine, we all missed the extraordinary prospective that a simple life could carry.

Fanny Trivigno

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