Gucci Cosmogonie: a star is born for everyone
After returning to Milan, in February 2022, Alessandro Michele picked up a very special place in which to host the new Gucci collection, Cosmogonie.
The chosen one, the orphic place has been fully represented by Castel del Monte, Apulia. The fortification, castle and quarter, was originally built for the late emperor Frederick II of Swabia and today is a part of UNESCO Heritage.
The medieval castle “Castel del Monte” overlooks Andria municipality and apart for the beauty of its standards- Castel del Monte is built in an octagonal shape, with each of the eight corners sporting an octagonal tower- it is widely recognized the majestic role that the fortress has played in the history of the countryside from 13th century and blending together elements from classical antiquity, Islamic Orient and north European Gothic.
Not to fail to notice, or to wonder, that the actual organization of the event has been an edgy boogie from logistic issues, coordination of structures and concrete authorization between Apulia and Basilicata.
Once the atmosphere had been established, also thanks to the presence of Maneskin, the fashion maison implemented the project detailed through official social pages: a star should have been registered according to the actual guests’ name, 350 in total.
A pledge to constellations and galaxies according to the unique items configuration, suspended between urban myths and elliptical turnings of destiny. As the artistic director Alessandro Michele personally exposed “ (..) this Gucci seasonality has been widely shaped according to the German Philosopher Walter Benjamin- as an ode to his actual thinking, Benjamin is a paradigm of someone who could be defined as “constellation thinker”, a term used to indicate an intellect capable of addressing his thoughts in a projected lay out as only a galaxy could potentially do; as the stars may be perceived as disseminative and atomistically alienated, this may result in a combined structure where something once neglect and considered as darkness may be a true innovative enlight. An enlightening epiphany.”
As a manifest of this clarification, the catwalk has been opened by a glittery transparent couture in combination with a fur synthetic coat; following this structure the runaway uncovers transparent dots micro dresses and long-term iconic Ophidia bags- logo themed or mono color. In association to cuissardes, laces, large one-toned hats and big 70s sunglasses, many have been the spring materials in accessories including wood and cork; in addition to cape coats in velvet beige or multicolored paillettes, the “Era” vibe was tactically swinging across 40s and 70s, in closing runaway kept exhibiting short tulle dresses, cropped trousers and sparkled suits developed around the concepts of transparency and stars luminescence.
Fanny Trivigno
Sources:
https://www.charmingpuglia.com/en/castel-del-monte.html ;
https://www.vogue.it/moda/article/gucci-sfila-in-puglia-castel-del-monte;
https://harpersbazaar.uol.com.br/moda/ao-vivo-assista-ao-desfile-cosmogonie-da-gucci/.